| City of St John's | |
| Downtown St. John's, Newfoundland | |
| Nickname(s): "The City of Legends" | |
| Motto: Avancez ("Go forward") | |
| Location of St John's in Newfoundland | |
| Coordinates: 47°33′32.4″N 52°42′46.8″W / 47.559°N 52.713°W / 47.559; -52.713 | |
| Country | Canada |
|---|---|
| Province | Newfoundland and Labrador |
| Census division | 1 |
| Established | August 5, 1583 by Royal Charter of Queen Elizabeth I |
| Government | |
| - City Mayor | Dennis O'Keefe |
| - Governing body | St. John's City Council |
| - MPs | Jack Harris Siobhán Coady |
| - MHAs | Ed Buckingham John Dinn Kathy Dunderdale Keith Hutchings (partially) Lorraine Michael Sheila Osborne Tom Osborne Kevin Parsons (partially) Bob Ridgley Shawn Skinner |
| Area | |
| - City | 446.04 km2 (172.2 sq mi) |
| - Metro | 804.63 km2 (310.7 sq mi) |
| Elevation | Sea Level 0 -147 m (0 - 483 ft) |
| Population (2006) | |
| - City | 100,646 |
| - Density | 225.6/km2 (576.0/sq mi) |
| - Metro | 181,113 |
| - Metro Density | 225.1/km2 (556.6/sq mi) |
| 20th Largest metropolitain area in Canada | |
| Time zone | NST (UTC-3:30) |
| - Summer (DST) | NDT (UTC-2:30) |
| Area code(s) | 709 |
| NTS Map | 001N10 |
| GNBC Code | ABEFS |
| Website | St. John's website |
St. John's (pronounced /ˌseɪntˈdʒɒnz/, French: Saint-Jean) is the provincial capital of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada and located on the eastern tip of the Avalon Peninsula on the island of Newfoundland. St. John's is the most populous Census Metropolitan Area (CMA) in the province,[1] it is the second largest CMA in the Atlantic Provinces after Halifax, and 20th Largest metropolitan area in Canada with a population of 181,113.[2] The city enjoys a long and vibrant history as the oldest English-founded city in North America.[3]
The St. John's CMA is the fastest growing metropolitan area in Newfoundland and Labrador, and the 19th fastest growing CMA in Canada. The CMA includes the neighbouring city of Mount Pearl and eleven other towns, the largest of which are Conception Bay South and Paradise.[4]
The harbour was a frequent haven for European fisherman throughout the early 1500s, and was officially established as a community when Sir Humphrey Gilbert declared Newfoundland an English colony in 1583.[5] While the origin of the name St. John's is not definitively known, its first usage appears in a Portuguese map as "Rio de San Johem" by 16th century Portuguese cartographer Pedro Reinel (? - c.1542). The popular origin of the name, however, is said to have originated from the Italian discoverer Giovanni Caboto, who landed in Bonavista on 24 June, 1497.[6]
With a long and prosperous history in the fishery industry, the last half of the 20th century has seen St. John's transformed into a modern export and service centre. More recently, its proximity to recently discovered oil fields has led to an economic boom that has spurred population growth, commercial development and has resulted in the St. John's area now accounting for about half of the province's economic output.[7]
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St. John's is the oldest English-founded settlement in North America.[3] Tradition declares that the city earned its name when explorer John Cabot became the first European to sail into the harbour, on June 24, 1497 — the feast day of Saint John the Baptist.[8] However, the exact locations of Cabot's landfalls are disputed. A series of expeditions to St. John's by the Portuguese in the Azores followed in the early 16th century, and by 1540 French, Spanish and Portuguese ships crossed the Atlantic annually to fish the waters off the Avalon Peninsula. In the Basque Country, it is a common belief that the name of St. John's was given by Basque fishermen because the bay of St. John's is very similar to the Bay of Pasaia in the Basque Country, where one of the fishing towns is also called St. John (in Spanish, San Juan).
The earliest record of the location appears as São João on a Portuguese map by Pedro Reinel in 1519. When John Rut visited St. John's in 1527 he found Norman, Breton and Portuguese ships in the harbour. On August 3, 1527, Rut wrote a letter to King Henry on the findings of his voyage to North America; this was the first known letter sent from North America. St. Jehan is shown on Nicholas Desliens' world map of 1541 and San Joham is found in João Freire's Atlas of 1546. It was during this time that Water Street was first developed, making it the oldest street in North America.
On August 5, 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert claimed the area as England's first overseas colony under Royal Charter of Queen Elizabeth I. At the time, he found 16 English ships with 20 French and Portuguese vessels using the harbour; at the time, settlement had developed on the north side of the harbour.[9] There was no permanent English settler population, however, and Gilbert was lost at sea during his return voyage, thereby ending any immediate plans for settlement. The Newfoundland National War Memorial is located on the waterfront in St. John's, at the purported site of Gilbert's landing and proclamation.
By 1620 the fishermen of England's West Country had excluded other nations from most of the east coast. In 1627, St. John's was "the principal prime and chief lot in all the whole country". The resident population grew slowly in the 17th century, but St. John's was by far the largest settlement in Newfoundland when English naval officers began to take censuses around 1675. Every summer the population swelled with the arrival of migratory fishermen. In 1680, fishing ships (mostly from South Devon) set up fishing rooms at St. John's, bringing hundreds of Irish men into the port to operate inshore fishing boats.
The town's first significant defenses were probably erected due to commercial interests, following the temporary seizure of St. John's by the Dutch admiral Michiel de Ruyter in June, 1665. Regardless of the identity of those who built the defenses, the inhabitants were able to fend off a second Dutch attack in 1673. The British government began to plan fortifications around 1689, and these were constructed following the retaking of St. John's after the French admiral Pierre Le Moyne d'Iberville captured and destroyed the town late in 1696. The French attacked St. John's again in 1705 and 1708, and devastated civilian structures with fire.
The harbour remained fortified through most of the 18th and 19th century. The final battle of the Seven Years' War in North America (the French and Indian War) was fought in 1762 in St. John's at the Battle of Signal Hill, in which the French surrendered St. John's to the British under the command of Colonel William Amherst.
The eighteenth century saw major changes in Newfoundland: population growth, beginnings of government, establishment of churches, reinforcement of commercial ties with North America and development of the seal, salmon and Grand Banks fisheries. St. John's grew slowly, and although it was still primarily a fishing station, it was also a garrison, a centre of government and, increasingly, a commercial hub. St. John's served as a naval base during both the American Revolutionary War and the War of 1812.
Shanawdithit, the last known individual of Newfoundland's indigenous Beothuk people, died in a St. John's hospital of tuberculosis in 1829.
The core of the city was destroyed by fire several times, the most famous of which was the Great Fire of 1892.
Guglielmo Marconi received the first transatlantic wireless message in St. John's on December 1901 from his wireless station in Poldhu, Cornwall.[10]
St. John's was the starting point for the first non-stop transatlantic aircraft flight, by Alcock and Brown in a modified Vickers Vimy IV bomber, in June 1919, departing from Lester's Field in St. John's and ending in a bog near Clifden, Connemara, Ireland.[11] In July 2005, the flight was duplicated by American aviator and adventurer Steve Fossett in a replica Vickers Vimy aircraft, with St. John's International Airport substituting for Lester's Field (now an urban and residential part of the city). [12]
During the Second World War, the harbour was used by Royal Navy and Royal Canadian Navy ships used for protecting convoys. It was also the site of a large US Army base called Fort Pepperrell. This base was established as part of the "Lend-Lease" agreement between the UK and USA.
The city is located on the northeast coast of the Avalon Peninsula in southeastern Newfoundland, and on the Atlantic Ocean. It is the most easterly city in North America, as well as the second largest city in Atlantic Canada (after Halifax, Nova Scotia). The downtown area lies to the north of St. John's Harbour, and the rest of the city expands uphill to the west, north, and east.
The native vegetation is dominated by coniferous trees such as black spruce, white spruce, and balsam fir. The largest deciduous tree is white birch ; species of lesser stature include alder, cherry and mountain ash. Introduced trees often seen in lawns and parks include Norway maple, sycamore maple, common horsechestnut, European beech and littleleaf linden.
Soils in the area tend to be stony and shallow. They also are strongly acidic in most cases, and have pale leached topsoils typical of podzols. Often the topsoils are much finer-textured than the parent material (atypical for podzols).
St. John's is the largest city in census Division No. 1.
Of all major cities in Canada, St John's is the cloudiest (only 1,497 hours of sunshine a year), snowiest (359 cm; 11.8 ft), and has the most wet days per year (Environment Canada, 2005). However, St. John's has the third mildest winter in comparison to other Canadian cities.[13] St. John's has a humid continental climate (Dfb) with cool-to-warm summers, and relatively mild winters for Canada (cold by a world standard). Average highs and lows are 20 °C (68 °F)/10 °C (50 °F) in July and -1 °C (30 °F)/-8 °C (17 °F) in January. The annual precipitation is moderate to high, with an average of 1,640 millimetres (64.6 in) per year. The city is also one of the areas of the country most prone to tropical cyclone activity, as it is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the east, where tropical storms (and sometimes hurricanes) travel.
| St. John's Climatological Data | ||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Temperature | ||||||||||||||
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Mean | |
| Record high °C (°F) | 15 (59) | 16 (61) | 18 (64) | 24 (75) | 26 (79) | 29 (84) | 32 (90) | 31 (88) | 30 (86) | 25 (77) | 20 (68) | 16 (61) | ||
| Average high °C (°F) | -1 (30) | -2 (28) | 1 (34) | 5 (41) | 11 (52) | 16 (61) | 20 (68) | 20 (68) | 16 (61) | 11 (52) | 6 (43) | 2 (36) | 9 (48) | |
| Mean °C (°F) | -5 (23) | -5 (23) | -3 (27) | 2 (36) | 6 (43) | 11 (52) | 15 (59) | 16 (61) | 12 (54) | 7 (45) | 3 (37) | -2 (28) | 5 (41) | |
| Average low °C (°F) | -9 (16) | -9 (16) | -6 (21) | -2 (28) | 2 (36) | 6 (43) | 11 (52) | 11 (52) | 8 (46) | 3 (37) | -1 (30) | -6 (21) | 1 (34) | |
| Record low °C (°F) | -23 (-9) | -24 (-11) | -24 (-11) | -15 (5) | -7 (19) | -3 (27) | -1 (30) | 1 (34) | -1 (30) | -6 (21) | -13 (9) | -20 (-4) | ||
| Precipitation and Sunshine Hours | ||||||||||||||
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Total | |
| Total mm (in) | 150 (5.9) | 125 (4.9) | 131 (5.2) | 122 (4.8) | 101 (4.0) | 102 (4.0) | 89 (3.5) | 108 (4.3) | 131 (5.2) | 162 (6.4) | 144 (5.7) | 149 (5.9) | 1514 (59.6) | |
| Rainfall mm (in) | 74 (2.9) | 61 (2.4) | 77 (3.0) | 94 (3.7) | 94 (3.7) | 101 (4.0) | 89 (3.5) | 108 (4.3) | 131 (5.2) | 160 (6.3) | 116 (4.6) | 89 (3.5) | 1191 (46.9) | |
| Snowfall cm (in) | 80 (31.5) | 67 (26.4) | 52 (20.5) | 26 (10.2) | 6 (2.4) | 1 (0.4) | 0 (0) | 0 (0) | 0 (0) | 3 (1.2) | 26 (10.2) | 61 (24.0) | 322 (126.8) | |
| Sunshine hours | 72 | 91 | 109 | 117 | 158 | 177 | 216 | 196 | 140 | 106 | 72 | 59 | 1513 | |
| Temperature and Precipitation data recorded at St. John's International Airport by Environment Canada. Data spans 1971 to 2000. Sunshine hours recorded at St. John's West CDA by Environment Canada. Data spans 1971 to 2000. |
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St. John's economy has been continuously connected both to its role as a regional/national/provincial capital and to the ocean. Today, its continued growth is as much tied to what lies beneath the ocean – oil and gas – as what swims in or travels across the ocean. The city's economy is growing quickly, and the city has been identified as having one of the highest proportion of scientists and engineers per capita of any city under one million population in North America. Economic forecasts suggest that the city will continue its strong economic growth in the coming years not only in the "oceanic" industries mentioned above, but also in tourism and new home construction as the population continues to grow.
This growth in St. John's and its surrounding suburban municipalities, particularly Paradise (+31%), Torbay (+15%), Portugal Cove-St. Philip's (+12%), Conception Bay South (+11%), and Flatrock (+7%) (all percentages indicate 2001–2006 growth) (St. John's metro area: +5% population; The rest of the province: -1.5% population).
St. John's is served by the Eastern School District, the largest school district in Newfoundland and Labrador by student population.[14] There are currently 36 primary, elementary and secondary schools in the city of St. John's, including three private schools and the Newfoundland School for the Deaf.[15] St. John's also includes one school that is part of the province-wide Conseil Scolaire Francophone (CSF), the Francophone public school district.[16] It also contains two private schools, St. Bonaventure's College and Lakecrest
One major public university operates in St. John's, Memorial University of Newfoundland (MUN), which provides comprehensive education and grants degrees in several fields. The Fisheries and Marine Institute of Memorial University of Newfoundland (MI) or simply Marine Institute, is a post-secondary ocean and marine polytechnic located in St. John's and is affiliated with Memorial University of Newfoundland.[17]
The College of the North Atlantic (CNA) is the public college of the province and operates two main campuses within the city. CNA provides career, trade, and university-transfer programs for St. John's residents.[18] The city is also hosts a number of private colleges and post-secondary schools; Academy Canada, CompuCollege, and Keyin College comprise the largest of these schools.[19]
The current mayor of the city of St. John's is Dennis O'Keefe.[20] O'Keefe was elected mayor in a June 2008, when longtime mayor Andy Wells was forced to resign in order to become the full-time chair of the Newfoundland and Labrador's Public Utilities Board
Due to St. John's being the capital city of Newfoundland and Labrador the provincial legislature is located in the city. The Confederation Building, which is located on confederation hill is home to the House of Assembly along with the offices of the MHA's and Ministers. The city is represented by seven MHA's, six who are members of the governing Progressive Conservative Party, and one seat that belongs to NDP leader Lorraine Michael, who has the only NDP seat in the province.
St. John's is represented by two Members of Parliament Liberal Siobhán Coady and New Democrat Jack Harris. The Newfoundland and Labrador office for the regional federal minister is located in downtown St. John's, and regional offices for Federal Government Departments are also located in the city.
The Provincial Museum of Newfoundland and Labrador (c. 1892-3) is on the Canadian Register of Historic Places.[22]
St. John's has over 400 locally owned and franchised restaurants. In the downtown area on Water St. and Duckworth, there are numerous shops, restaurants and historic buildings.
St. John's Farmers' Market runs weekly on Saturdays from June until the end of November featuring locally made arts/crafts, baked goods, international food, and local produce.[23]
St. John's is the eastern terminus of the Trans-Canada Highway. Victoria, British Columbia is the western terminus.[24] The divided highway, also known as "Outer Ring Road" in the city, runs just outside the main part of the city, with exits to Pitts Memorial Drive, Topsail Road, Team Gushue Highway, Thorburn Road, Allandale Road, Portugal Cove Road and Torbay Road, providing access to the neighbourhoods of those streets relatively easy. Pitts Memorial Drive runs from Conception Bay South, through the city of Mount Pearl and into downtown St. John's, with interchanges for the Goulds, Water Street and Hamilton Avenue-New Gower Street. Pitts Memorial Drive has been criticized for less-than-ideal road conditions. The Parkway is another major thoroughfare in the city.
The city's aviation needs are served by St. John's International Airport. The airport is located 3 nautical miles (5.6 km) northwest of the city and airlines include Air Canada, Air Canada Jazz, Air Labrador, Air Saint-Pierre, Air Transat, CanJet, Continental Airlines, Provincial Airlines, Skyservice, Sunwing Airlines and Westjet.[25] In 2005 St. John's International Airport was the tenth Busiest Airport In Canada.
The city's public transportation system is Metrobus.[26] Metrobus has a total of 18 routes, 778 bus stops, 68 bus shelters, 54 buses and an average weekday ridership of 14,815.[27] Destinations include the Avalon Mall, The Village Shopping Centre, Churchill Square, downtown St. John's, Kelsey Drive, Pearlgate Plaza, Torbay Road Mall, Stavanger Drive Business Park, Mount Pearl Square, the four hospitals in the city, Airport Heights, Goulds, Kilbride, Shea Heights, Mile One Centre, Memorial University, Academy Canada, College of the North Atlantic, Marine Institute, Confederation Building, City Hall and other important areas in the city.[28]
St. John's was the eastern terminus of the Newfoundland Railway until the abandonment and closure of the railway in September 1988.
(Unless otherwise identified, all statistics below are for the St. John's metro area, not the core city of St. John's.)
| City | Metro | |
|---|---|---|
| Population | 100,646 | 181,113 |
| Growth (2001–2006) | 1.5% | |
| Dwellings | 45,317 | |
| Area (km²) | 446.04 | 804.64 |
| Area (sq mi) | 172.2 | 310.7 |
| Density (persons per km²) | 225.6 | 214.9 |
People from St. John's are commonly referred to by Newfoundlanders living outside the St. John's metro area as Townies (being that they live in one of the only big cities in the province).
Overwhelmingly Christian, the population of St. John's was once divided along sectarian (Catholic/Protestant) lines. In recent years, this sectarianism has declined significantly, and is no longer a commonly acknowledged facet of life in St. John's. St. John's is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of St. John's, and the Anglican Bishop of Eastern Newfoundland and Labrador.
| Religion | 2001 | % |
|---|---|---|
| *Roman Catholic | 83,615 | 48.9% |
| *Protestant | 77,880 | 45.5% |
| **Anglican | 39,020 | 22.8% |
| **United Church | 25,670 | 15.0% |
| **Salvation Army | 5,645 | 3.3% |
| **Pentecostal | 3,865 | 2.3% |
| **Presbyterian | 1,220 | 0.7% |
| **Baptist | 495 | 0.3% |
| **Jehovah's Witness | 425 | 0.2% |
| **Other Protestant | 1,540 | 0.9% |
| *Christian, not included elsewhere | 1,310 | 0.8% |
| Muslim | 475 | 0.3% |
| Hindu | 355 | 0.2% |
| Other religions | 460 | 0.3% |
| No religion | 6,990 | 3.9% |
Many of the earliest settlers of St. John's came from the southwest of England, especially the West Country and Devon in particular, and southeast Ireland, primarily Waterford, Wexford and Kilkenny. These origins can still be detected in similarities between the original dialects of each of these regions and the traditional St. John's accent.
| Ethnic origin | Population | Percent |
|---|---|---|
| Canadian | 81,490 | 47.63% |
| English | 73,545 | 42.98% |
| Irish | 51,180 | 29.92% |
| Scottish | 13,520 | 7.90% |
| French | 7,125 | 4.16% |
| German | 2,925 | 1.71% |
| Native American | 1,990 | 1.16% |
The information regarding ethnicities above is from the 2001 Canadian Census. The percentages add to more than 100% because of dual responses (e.g. "French-Canadian" generates an entry in both the category "French" and the category "Canadian".) Groups with greater than 1,500 responses are included.
St. John's has continuously had one of the lowest crime rates in Canada. Policing services are provided by the Royal Newfoundland Constabulary, which serves as the primary policing body of the metropolitan area. The B Division headquarters of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, which serves the rest of Newfoundland and Labrador, is located in the Pleasantville neighbourhood in the city's east end. According to Statistics Canada's Juristat reports (1993-2007), the metropolitan area reports an average homicide rate of approximately 1.15 per 100,000 population; an average of two homicides per year. An all-time high rate of 2.27 was reported in 1993 (four homicides). This figure is far below the national average and ranks amongst the lowest rates for any metropolitan area in Canada.
St. John's is currently the only Canadian city served by radio stations whose call letters do not all begin with the letter C. The ITU prefix VO was assigned to the Dominion of Newfoundland before the province joined Canadian Confederation in 1949, and three AM stations kept their existing call letters. However, other commercial radio stations in St. John's which went to air after 1949 use the same range of prefixes (CF–CK) currently in use elsewhere in Canada, with the exception of VOCM-FM, which was permitted to adopt the VOCM callsign because of its corporate association with the AM station that already bore that callsign. VO also remains in use in amateur radio.
St. John's is served by several local papers. The main paper is The Telegram, the only daily news for the city. Others include The Muse, The Gazette, Le Gaboteur, The Scope, and The Current. St. John's also receives the nationally distributed newspapers The Globe and Mail and the National Post.
Harding, Les. Historic St. John's: The City of Legends. Jesperson, 1993. ISBN 0-921692-52-8
Galgay, Frank. Olde St. John's: Stories from a Seaport City. St. John's: Flanker, 2001.
| Wikimedia Commons has media related to: St. John's |
| North: Torbay, Logy Bay-Middle Cove-Outer Cove, and Flatrock, and Pouch Cove | ||
| West: Portugal Cove-St. Philip's, Paradise, Mount Pearl, Conception Bay South | St. John's | East: Petty Harbour-Maddox Cove, |
| South: Division No. 1, Subd. D, Bay Bulls |
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